Fures Port

ORME készítés

A bibliai manna, a bölcsek köve, fiatalság- és az örök élet forrása, orgon-energia, prána, chi, a szent grál, a nagy piramis, a frigyláda stb. Úgy tűnik, hogy ezek a dolgok mind az anyagok egy újfajta osztályához kapcsolódnak, amelynek a felfedezése, vagy újra-felfedezése mostanában történik...

David Hudson patent: from here

G-ORME is prepared from metallic gold as follows:

(1) 50 mg gold (99.99% pure) were dispersed in 200 ml aqua regia to provide clusters of gold atoms.

(2) 60 ml concentrated hydrochloric acid were added to the dispersion and the mixture was brought to boil, and continued boiling until the volume was reduced to approximately 10-15 ml. 60 ml concentrated HCl were added, and the sample brought to boil and checked for evolution of NOCl fumes. The process was repeated until no further fumes evolved, thus indicating that the nitric acid had been removed and the gold had been converted completely to the gold chloride.

(3) The volume of the dispersion was reduced by careful heating until the salt was just dry. "Just dry" as used herein means that all of the liquid had been boiled off, but the solid residue had not been "baked" or scorched.

(4) The just dry salts were again dispersed in aqua regia and steps (2) and (3) were repeated. This treatment provides gold chloride clusters of greater than 11 atoms.

(5) 150 ml 6M hydrochloric acid were added to the just dry salts and boiled again to evaporate off the liquid to just dry salts. This step was repeated four times. This procedure leads to a greater degree of sub-division to provide smaller clusters of gold chloride. At the end of this procedure an orangish-red salt of gold chloride is obtained. The salt will analyze as substantially pure Au2Cl6.

(6) Sodium chloride is added in an amount whereby the sodium is present at a ratio 20 moles sodium per mole of gold. The solution is then diluted with deionized water to a volume of 400 ml. The presence of the aqueous sodium chloride provides the salt Na2Au2Cl8. The presence of water is essential to break apart the diatoms of gold.

(7) The aqueous sodium chloride solution is very gently boiled to a just dry salt, and thereafter the salts were taken up alternatively in 200 ml deionized water and 300 ml 6M hydrochloric acid until no further change in color is evidenced. The 6M hydrochloric acid is used in the last treatment.

(8) After the last treatment with 6M hydrochloric acid, and subsequent boildown, the just dry salt is diluted with 400 ml deionized water to provide a monoatomic gold salt solution of NaAuCl2'XH2O. The pH is approximately 1.0.

(9) The pH is adjusted very slowly with dilute sodium hydroxide solution, while constantly stirring, until the pH of the solution remains constant at 7.0 for a period of more than twelve hours. This adjustment may take several days. Care must be taken not to exceed pH 7.0 during the neutralization.

(10) After the pH is stabilized at pH 7.0, the solution is gently boiled down to 10 ml and 10 ml concentrated nitric acid is added to provide a sodium-gold nitrate. As is apparent, the nitrate is an oxidizer and removes the chloride. The product obtained should be white crystals. If a black or brown precipitate forms, this is an indication that there is still Na2Au2Cl8 present. If present, it is then necessary to restart the process at step (1).

(11) If white crystals are obtained, the solution is boiled to obtain just dry crystals. It is important not to overheat, i.e., bake.

(12) 5 ml concentrated nitric acid are added to the crystals and again boiled to where the solution goes to just dry. Again it is essential not to overheat or bake. Steps (11) and (12) provide a complete conversion of the product to a sodium-gold nitrate. No chlorides are present.

(13) 10 ml deionized water are added and again boiled to just dry salts. This step is repeated once. This step eliminates any excess nitric acid which may be present.

(14) Thereafter, the just dry material is diluted to 80 ml with deionized water. The solution will have a pH of approximately 1. This step causes the nitrate to dissociate to obtain NaAu in water with a small amount of HNO3 remaining .

(15) The pH is adjusted very slowly with dilute sodium hydroxide to 7.0 + 0.2. This will eliminate all free acid, leaving only NaAu in water.

(16) The NaAu hydrolyzes with the water and dissociates to form HAu. The product will be a white precipitate in water. The Au atoms have water at the surface which creates a voluminous cotton-like product.

(17) The white precipitate is decanted off from any dark grey solids and filtered through a 0.45 micron cellulose nitrate filter paper. Any dark grey solids of sodium auride should be redissolved and again processed starting at step (1).

(18) The filtered white precipitate on the filter paper is vacuum dried at 120°C for two hours. The dry solid should be light grey in color which is HAu×XH2O and is easily removed from the filter paper.

(19) The monoatomic gold is placed in a porcelain ignition boat and annealed at 300°C under an inert gas to remove hydrogen and to form a very chemically and thermally stable white gold monomer.

(20) After cooling, the ignited white gold can be cleaned of remaining traces of sodium by digesting with dilute nitric acid for approximately one hour.

(21) The insoluble white gold is filtered on 0.45 micron paper and vacuum dried at 120°C for two hours. The white powder product obtained from the filtration and drying is pure G-ORME.

How to make ORMUS: from here

WET-METHOD PROCEDURE

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding.

First you need to prepare a dilute lye solution. Label an eyedropper bottle or squirt bottle "Lye-poison" so the bottle will not confused with something else. Work in a sink so that any spills will be contained. Lye gives off eye-stinging fumes when mixed with water. To avoid inhaling fumes, hold your breath and wear goggles while doing the following procedure.

Working over a sink, put 8 teaspoons of distilled water in a sturdy glass then stir in 1 teaspoon of lye. Stir until the lye is dissolved. Heat will be generated as the lye dissolves and the glass may get fairly hot. You may want to close your eyes to avoid eye-stinging fumes, taking a peek periodically.

Pour the lye solution into a labeled eyedropper bottle or squirt bottle.

If you are using pH paper, tear off several 1/4" pieces and put them on a piece of white paper on a plate.

For the best accuracy, recalibrate the pH paper throughout the day with changes in temperature and humidity, as well as day-to-day. Buffer solutions of pH 4, 7 and 10 will help with this. Sources of pH buffer solutions are listed near the end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.

If you are using dried sea minerals, mix 1/2 cup of dry material with 2 cups of distilled water. This makes sea water. Now proceed as described below:

1. First, you might want to pour the sea water through a coffee filter to remove any scum.

2. If the starting material does not contain magnesium hydroxide (sea water does contain magnesium hydroxide), add some, or add a teaspoon of Epsom salts per gallon of water.

3. Pour the sea water into a stainless steel pot. Slowly, drop-by-drop, add the lye solution WHILE STIRRING. Every ten drops or so, test the pH. You might want to take at least 3 to 5 samples from different regions of the liquid. If you are using pH paper, the goal is to bring the pH up to 9.5, then stop to be on the safe side. If you are using a pH meter, stop just before you get to pH 10.78.

A white precipitate which includes m-state elements will form.

CAUTION: You must proceed slowly and patiently so that you do not exceed pH 10.78 with a meter or pH 9.5 with pH paper. If you go higher than pH 10.78, you might get a "Gilcrest precipitate" of toxic heavy metals. It is alleged that the Dead Sea salt water does not produce any Gilcrest precipitate. This has not been proven and should not be assumed.

4. Once you are at the correct pH, stop.

5. Pour the solution into a clean glass jar or test tube.

6. The white precipitate (slurry) slowly settles on the bottom of the jar. Let the slurry settle overnight. If metals or other toxins have been ruled out by prior testing of your starting material, the slurry is probably mostly calcium hydroxide, Mg(OH)2, lye, and a small amount of m-state.

You can speed this settling process with a centrifuge, which forces the precipitate to settle rapidly. Inexpensive second-hand centrifuges may be found at American Science and Surplus, http://www.sciplus.com.

7. Using a large syringe (or siphon), remove the liquid above the slurry.

8. Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir thoroughly, and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours, preferably overnight.

9. Repeat steps 7 and 8 at least three times to thoroughly wash the precipitate. This should remove almost all of the lye. The remaining lye can be neutralized with HCl or distilled white vinegar as well. Washing three times is intended to reduce the dissolved "impurities" (like salt, for example) by 87.5%. Four washes would provide a 93.75% reduction, five washes a 96.875% reduction, and so on.

At this point, the precipitate is likely to contain some m-state, milk of magnesia Mg(OH)2, calcium, and perhaps some impurities.

Pour the precipitate and water into a stainless steel pot on a stove burner. A gas burner is preferred over electric because any magnetic fields from the electric burner may drive off some of the m-state material. Cover the pot with a lid to contain the m-state, and boil the solution for 5 minutes to sterilize it. Be careful not to spill the hot solution! Let it cool back to room temperature and recheck the pH to make sure it hasn't exceeded pH 9.

DISCUSSION: WHEN TO BOIL THE SOLUTION

In this document, we suggested that you not boil the solution until you have made the washed precipitate. However, boiling can be done earlier in the procedure with certain advantages. Here are four times that boiling could be done, with a discussion of the pros and cons of each:

1. Boil before adding lye solution.

PROS: Faster reaction, faster precipitation. CONS: You may spill the hot lye solution. You may inhale fumes.

2. Boil while adding lye solution.

PROS: Faster reaction, faster precipitation. CONS: You may spill the hot lye solution. You may inhale fumes. Danger of lye spurting out of pot. Not recommended.

3. Boil and cool after adding lye solution.

PROS: No danger of inhaling fumes. Little danger of spilling hot lye solution. CONS: Slower reaction, slower precipitation.

4. Boil the washed precipitate (recommended).

PROS: No danger of inhaling fumes. No danger of spilling hot lye solution. pH is unlikely to change after boiling because the reaction has already taken place. CONS: Slower reaction, slower precipitation. If safety is the main issue, this seems to be the best method.

Caution: If you boil the solution on an electric burner, the magnetic field in the burner may "blow off" some of the m-state materials, resulting in a small yield. This can be minimized by adding a source of sodium (such as sodium hydroxide or salt) to the solution before boiling.

Since sea water contains sodium in salt, none of the boiling methods will be a problem with sea water. However, if you are starting with low-sodium fresh water, add a sodium source (such as table salt or lye solution) before boiling.

Once the precipitate and water have been sterilized, the next step is required to concentrate the m-state.

 

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HOW TO PURIFY YOUR PRECIPITATE

The precipitate made from sea water contains milk of magnesia (Mg(OH)2), which precipitates approximately around the same pH range that m-state does.

Here are four methods to separate Mg(OH)2 from m-state:

METHOD 1

1. Suppose you just made a precipitate by adding lye solution to sea water. The precipitate is m-state mixed with Mg(OH)2.

2. Use a syringe to remove the liquid over the precipitate, and discard the liquid. This leaves only the m-state/Mg(OH)2 precipitate.

3. To the wet precipitate, add hydrochloric acid (HCl) until you reduce the pH to 1.0 - 3.5. You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but lab-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated. A safe alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar.

4. The white colloidal precipitate should dissolve, leaving a clear solution.

5. Add lye solution VERY SLOWLY drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to 8.5 - 8.7. The precipitate that forms should be m-state mostly free of Mg(OH)2 (because m-state precipitates in this pH range, and Mg(OH)2 does not precipitate until pH 9.)

Note that your total yield may be diminished because you are not going past pH 8.7.

6. Remove the liquid above the precipitate, and wash the precipitate. It should be mostly m-state.

METHOD 2

This procedure removes the Mg(OH)2 by dissolving it below pH 9. First get some HCl (or muriatic acid) and coffee filters. A safer alternative to HCl is distilled white vinegar.

1. Dry the precipitate in a dark oven at about 275 degrees F for one or two hours. This forms a dry powder.

2. Take the dry powder and pulverize out any clumps.

3. In a glass container, cover the powder with some distilled water. For example, one liter of water for one cup of powder.

4. Add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop to bring the pH to 5 or 6.

5. Shake the bottle and let it sit overnight. The dried m-state should not dissolve at that pH, but the Mg(OH)2 should dissolve.

6. The next day, after all the Mg(OH)2 has dissolved, pour everything into filter paper.

7. Wash the powder collected in the filter paper several times with distilled water to remove any residual traces of HCl or vinegar.

8. The washed powder may be oven-dried again at about 275 degrees F, and you should have m-state powder free of Mg(OH)2.

METHOD 3

1. Dry the original precipitate at about 200 degrees F.

2. Mix the resulting powder with distilled white vinegar or 30% HCl. Everything which does not dissolve in m-state. This will be quite a small amount if you start with sea water. (If you mix pure HCl with distilled water, remember: ADD ACID TO WATER, NEVER ADD WATER TO ACID).

3. Measure the amount of HCl/m-state solution (or vinegar/m-state solution).

4. Add distilled water to the HCl/m-state solution. Add an amount of water that is at least ten times the amount of HCl/m-state solution. (You may substitute distilled white vinegar for HCl).

5. Filter the solution through 5 layers of coffee filters.

6. Wash the powder at least three times in a large amount of distilled water.

METHOD 4

1. Starting with clean wet precipitate, add lye to bring the pH up to 12. The m-state precipitate will dissolve, but magnesium hydroxide and the Gilcrest precipitate will not.

2. Filter out the precipitate.

3. To the remaining liquid containing only m-state, add HCl or distilled white vinegar drop-by-drop until the pH reaches 8.5.

4. Add lye solution drop-by-drop to bring the pH back up to 10.78. The resulting precipitate should be only m-state.

5. Wash the precipitate as described earlier.

6. To be safe, check the pH of the precipitate slurry. It should be 9 or less before ingesting.


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DRY METHOD

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding.

This method takes longer than the WET method. In some cases, it involves boiling lye for several hours, which may spray some caustic solution around your work area. Please wear neoprene gloves, a PVC lab apron, and eye goggles when you use this method. Sources for this safety clothing are listed near the end of this document under LAB SUPPLIES.

Some people have reported adverse reactions to the WET method precipitate or powder. This may be due to the Gilcrest precipitates which occur above pH 11.5. The DRY method removes the dangerous Gilcrest precipitates, so it results in safer material.

EXTRA SUPPLIES NEEDED FOR THE DRY METHOD

12-cup coffee filters from a grocery store.

Hydrochloric acid. You can use muriatic acid (31% HCl) from a hardware store, but lab-grade HCl is less likely to be contaminated. Other acids can be used, but HCl will not harm the body if accidentally ingested in weak solutions and in small amounts. You might prefer to use distilled white vinegar instead of HCl. Although distilled white vinegar (acetic acid) is weaker than HCl, is it safer to work with.

Heavy plastic HDPE cottage cheese containers, 1 pint and 1 quart, to hold the coffee filters.

MAKING A HOLDER FOR THE COFFEE FILTERS

1. Start with a pint and a quart container for cottage cheese. Make sure the pint container will fit into the quart container. The pint container should hang inside the lip of the quart container.

2. Across the bottom of the pint container, punch or drill several holes, 1/8" to 1/4" diameter, about 1/4" apart.

3. If the small container fits too tightly into the larger container, you may need to drill some air-pressure equalization holes around the outside of the large container near the level of the bottom of the small container. Otherwise the air pressure between the two containers will keep liquid from draining from the coffee filters. When you use this filter, place the cottage cheese containers in a stainless steel or glass container to catch any overflow. The lye water that you will be filtering may damage counter tops or cabinets if it contacts them.

4. The coffee filters should fit nicely into the smaller top cottage-cheese container.

DRY METHOD STARTING MATERIALS

Generally start with dry material such as sweepings from salt and alkali flats, rock powders, limestone, mineral salts, Isis or Etherium white gold powder, volcanic ash, plant cinders, etc.

These are some materials that produce a lot of precipitate from the DRY method:

• Crushed, unheated limestone (Caution: agricultural grade powdered limestone from some sources contains sufficient lead and/or arsenic to be a potential hazard)
• Golden Nectar trace mineral formula
• Etherium/Isis Gold powder
• Ancient Secrets Dead Sea Mineral Salts
• Masada salts (unscented)

DRY-METHOD PROCEDURE

Please read CAUTION!! and WARNING!! before proceeding.

First you need to prepare a dilute lye solution. Label an eyedropper bottle or squirt bottle "Lye-poison" so the bottle will not confused with something else. Work in a sink so that any spills will be contained. Lye gives off eye-stinging fumes when mixed with water. To avoid inhaling fumes, hold your breath and wear goggles while doing the following procedure.

Working over a sink, put 8 teaspoons of distilled water in a sturdy glass then stir in 1 teaspoon of lye. Stir until the lye is dissolved. Heat will be generated as the lye dissolves and the glass may get fairly hot. You may want to close your eyes to avoid eye-stinging fumes, taking a peek periodically.

Pour the lye solution into a labeled eyedropper bottle or squirt bottle.

If you are using pH paper, tear off several 1/4" pieces and put them on a piece of white paper on a plate (as illustrated above). Now proceed as described below:


1. Grind the starting material to a fine powder.

2. Add 1:4 lye solution to cover the dry material with a thin layer.

3. Stir in some distilled water to cover the powder and lye by 2 inches.

4. Bring to a boil (this is best done outdoors or in an exhaust hood). The pH should be at or slightly above 12. The lye brings the m-state elements into solution while leaving the Gilcrest precipitates as solids.

NOTE: If you start with sea salt, you can omit the boiling step with its noxious fumes, and simply let the solution sit for three days. Then go directly to Step 7. (Some other starting materials might also react without boiling).

5. If you are boiling the solution, replace water as needed to maintain sufficient reactant volume.

6. Boil for several hours -- the longer the better -- in a closed container. The container may be open if you add liquid as needed. Four hours should be sufficient for Etherium/Isis material.

7. Strain the slurry through 3 to 5 layers of coffee filters. You are removing the toxic elements (Gilcrest precipitate) that precipitate above pH 11.5.

Save the liquid that passes through the filters. Most m-state present will be in solution in the liquid.

8. While stirring the liquid, slowly add HCl or distilled white vinegar to bring the pH down to 8.5. A white precipitate forms which is partly m-state.

If you go too far, the pH will abruptly shift, and you will have to start over. If this happens you must add lye quickly and bring the pH back up to 12.

9. Let the precipitate settle overnight.

10. Using a large syringe (or a siphon), remove the liquid above the slurry.

11. Add distilled water to the precipitate (filling the jar), stir thoroughly, and let it settle again for at least 4 to 5 hours, preferably overnight.

12. Repeat steps 10 and 11 at least three times to thoroughly wash the precipitate. This removes most traces of lye and HCl (or vinegar).

You'll get a wet, white precipitate (slurry) containing m-state elements. Check that the pH is 9 or less before ingesting. Some of the precipitate may be milk of magnesia or calcium. If you wish, you can remove them using the precipitate purification procedures described above.

Don Nance method from here ( OceanAlchemy )

Date: Thu, 27 Jun 2002 23:16:14 EDT
Subject: HOW TO MAKE WHITE GOLD POWDER #1

Hi :)

I am don from oceanalchemy.com

So, from the emails that I receive I guess that you wish to make your own white powder of gold. Is this true?

Okay, then...lets do it.

***SOME OF THESE PROCESSES ARE DANGEROUS AND THE DANGER FACTOR VARIES FROM ONE PART OF THE PROCESS TO ANOTHER***ALSO USE THE SIZE FLASK INDICATED WITHIN THE TEXT***some common sense would indicate to just buy from an Alchemist, but you don't want to hear that ;-) Further realize that this is not a method to the Classical Philosopher's Stone (neither was David Hudson's) nor to the Red Lion. But this process will take you directly to the White Powder of Pure Gold.

Get what ever quantity of pure (at least 99.99% pure) gold that you can afford. I will list the process as a step-by-step METHOD that does not include an Alchemist...for that benefit, you are on your own.

The length of this process is such that you will need to first and foremost be patient, as I have to eat and have bills to pay like many of you here. If you cannot afford to buy at least 1/4 ounce of gold, then please reply ASAP and I will tell you how to get around that...but this holds a price tag in my efforts, your efforts and the outcome of All efforts. Better to snag some of the yellow stuff.

As luck would have it the moon phase is just right for the first steps. We want to make the gold go away, just as the moon is.

For every 1/4 ounce of gold, either powder or leaf it. This I do, as I buy it in shot form, by setting a blow torch to it and melting it all into one big nugget. Then, while it is still hot I beat hell out of it with a hammer into the shape of a thin coin, then I file it with a new Mill Bastard file into powder which I put into my 2 liter lab glass filtering flask for the initial dissolution. The gold is soft and does not leach anything from the very hard steels used. No matter what anyOne may say, I have assays which tell me that this is the preferred Way, just as the Ancients accomplished it, except that we have purer gold than they had. There are no contaminants from this method. If you don't believe, then I am wasting my time...and yours...go get an education!

I now have 1/4 ounce of pure gold in my 2 liter flask. To this I will add 6 ounces of distilled water. Into this water I will add 3 teaspoons of salt. I will stir this until it is dissolved. AFTER the salt is dissolved, I will add pure HCL, the ACS is 35% and I will add 8 ounces of it. I will then add the Celestial Fire. (you are creating approximately a 20% acid solution of HCL)

Once all of this is happy, One may expect some reaction from the HCL, but there is none. The Au (gold) just sits there, and it will do so indefinitely. At this point, we begin to kindle a fire...but not the kind of fire that you are accustomed to lighting ;-)

Take 1 ounce of 35% Food Grade H2O2, yes, that's hydrogen peroxide, and add it to your flask. The reaction will take about 20 minutes to begin, depending upon ambient temperature. You may or may not need to add more FIRE (H2O2) to the mix, this depends upon the particle size of your gold, which ALWAYS VARIES..What you want to see is a steady stream of bubbles rising from all of your gold. The temperature within the flask may elevate somewhat, and it will definitely give off NOXIOUS CHLORINE GAS which must be vented, somehow, without allowing the ORMUS to escape... If you cannot figure out how to accomplish this task, then, trust me, you do not want to do this procedure. If you don't trust me, then...WHY are you doing this?

You will continue to add H2O2 by the 1/2 ounce, to keep the fire going. I personally believe that this "cold reaction" is soliciting energy from the Zero point or from the Ether to disaggregate the gold, as this method defies rational mathematics. You will always have to watch your fire, as any Alchemist would, to keep it fueled and fired, or your gold will take forever to go away if you do not. IF you try to go too fast, you will have a real mess on your hands as the ACID BOILS OVER ONTO EVERYTHING and ruins your wildest hopes. Be patient here, please.

This takes time, as every Chemist hates, you do not dissolve gold for Aurum Potable overnight. Give it up. The click of the clock is but a contrivance of Mankind to keep his Like enslaved and controlled. The real time is that time which it takes...that time which IS, that time which comes around to you...the Patient One.

Once seven people have replied stating that they are at this point, then I will again Serve. I will also ask that those Seven will not be anonymous, as I am not, and that they will be at service to those in need. That they will be Responsible to aid with the helping of others. They will be responsible for their actions. I will then follow with next processes. But not until. If you do not agree, then go buy some dognuts and shut up.

Sincerely...I have answered your call...this thing I Will Do...

As Above ~ So Below

don nance
swiftrock@juno.com
www.oceanalchemy.com

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 12:58:50 EDT
Subject: HOW TO MAKE WHITE GOLD POWDER #1 Outline steps 1 ~ 9

To dissolve 1/10 ounce of gold, I use the following recipe, step-by-step.

1) Into a 500 ml. flask I place 60 ml. of distilled water.

2) I stir in 1 teaspoon of pure salt. Good to use Morton canning and pickling salt. Be CERTAIN that all of the salt is dissolved and the solution is clear of particulates. This is important. Don't use iodized salt and do not use a salt with anti-caking chemicals in it. Use pure NaCl.

3) Add your gold filings.

4) Stir in, VERY SLOWLY, 80 ml. of muriatic acid. I use ACS quality, but Buckman's Laboratories makes a very pure muriatic, which is available from quality pool/spa dealers. Smart brand also works. The muriatic must be clear/colorless, as the yellow stuff contains sulfur and will NOT work. The acid must be added VERY slowly. If you go too fast, the salt will precipitate back out of your solution. This will work, but seriously slows down the dissolution of your gold. When this happens, the salt will slowly go back into solution as your gold dissolves. So if this occurs, just go on with the recipe, realizing that it slowed you down considerably.

5) add in some 35% H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) food grade or technical grade (minimum). Add it about 1 teaspoon at a time and wait 20 minutes. A "fire" will begin inside of your flask. You want to have a good steady stream of bubbles coming from all of your gold. You also want to build your fire slowly. If you add too much H2O2 you run the risk of having it boil on you and it will come out of your flask and the gassing will be extreme and acid will go everywhere and life on our planet, as we know it, will have changed ;-)

6) Place this inside of a shield (nest) and check it three times a day. Add H2O2 as needed until your gold goes away. This takes as long as it takes. The Philosophers had many ways of marking time. The two that we are concerned with here are the lunar phases and the "elastic" time, that which is marked by a reaction taking as long as it takes. The variable being that you will never have exactly the same particle size for your gold and the phase of the moon. Best to do your dissolution during the waning moon and precipitations during the waxing, culminating during the full moon. Believe it or not, this really makes a difference.

7) Once all of your gold is dissolved, add more H2O2 and keep the fire going for a while longer. This will help to break up the metallic clusters.

Once this is complete, you will have a very pretty gold chloride. Its ph will be MINUS 2.0 (on my well calibrated meter). It will eat you to the bone. Always wear protection for eyes, hands, etc...anything that you could not stand to lose :)

From here there are several "ways to go." The most direct way to white gold is to make up a lye menstruum of about 1 part lye to 8 parts water. This is about 18 oz. of lye crystals slowly dissolved into a gallon of distilled water. This reaction creates heat and some nasty fumes and needs to be done in a glass jar or beaker. The lye, just like the acids, are always added to the water. NEVER add water to concentrated lye or to concentrated acid. You will have a big problem!

8) Once your gold solution has stopped bubbling from the H2O2, begin dripping your 1/8 lye menstruum into it at a rate of about 4 drops per second while stirring briskly. You ARE wearing gloves and eye protection, aren't you? You really don't need a ph meter for this. Just bring the ph up but not too quickly! Too fast and it will boil on you...if you see some steam collecting on the sides of your flask, you are getting too hot. Slow down your lye addition and keep stirring. This reaction takes a WHILE.

Your solution will clear, you can stop and rest here. If you are going too fast, the solution will clear and then very quickly change color and a precipitate will form. That's fine, no worries.

Stop adding lye when you get a precipitate, this will occur by ph 10.78 if you are using a meter. If no meter, stop when you get a color change and a precipitate.

While you are resting, mix up an acid solution in a glass jar by adding 4 parts of muriatic acid to 3 parts of distilled water.

9) Start stirring your gold solution and slowly drip in some of this acid solution. This acid solution should approximate a 20% strength. Stop adding acid solution when your gold precipitate disappears. The ph will be around ph 1 or so. The color of the solution will likely be gold but not as concentrated looking as before. It may also be another color. No worries again, just look at it to see that there are no particles. If so, add more acid solution. If you still have particles, stop there and add some more H2O2 just as before and break this stuff up some more.

Cont'd.

Don

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2002 13:53:00 EDT
Subject: HOW TO MAKE WHITE GOLD POWDER steps 9 ~

Continued from step #9....

10) Begin stirring your gold acid solution and start dropping in your LYE menstruum to again raise the ph of your solution. You want to go on up to ph 10.78 again or until you get a precipitate. Don't be surprised if this is yet a different color from the last time you did this.

11) Now bring the ph back down into acid using your 20% HCL solution that you likely made from muriatic acid. This time, when the particles disappear, the solution will no longer be gold colored at all. This is your clue that the metal bonds are broken up sufficiently to proceed.

12) Now, LOL! Bring the ph of your solution up to about ph 8.0 or so by stirring quickly and adding your lye menstruum in drops.

What we are doing with all of these ph swings is breaking the metallic bonds of your gold metal.

Now what you have is three things from your gold. Although this is not readily apparent! The precipitate that is falling is made up of the larger metallic clusters. It is gold oxide. It is still metal. However, in your solution, is the oil of gold, chlorides and consciousness (m-state). To make a Stone One would do a different process at this point. However, we are concerned with getting to the white powder/elixir stage. So we do this...

Instead of separating the various Philosophical components, we will "marry" them. Many of the superfluous impurities went away with that nasty chlorine gas. If you wish to complicate your life, you can do this...

12a) let the precipitate settle well, then pour off the top water and KEEP it, (You can evaporate this down, very slowly, and obtain a white powder of gold trichloride which is VERY POTENT) and wash the precipitate with 3 times as much distilled water as you have precipitate by volume. This is done by simply adding the Universal Solvent (distilled water) to your separated precipitate and stirring. You let this settle and pour it off (I eat it :) then add the original top water back into the precipitate...then proceed to the next step...or you can skip all of step 12a and just jump right to...

13) Place the precipitate and top water into a boiling flask and over a gas flame or candle, slowly evaporate the water from your precipitate. My advise is to not boil this and go to a just-dry state. This, again, takes as long as it takes. Do not boil it and do not bake the dryness or scorch it. You want it just thoroughly dry. The addition of the gentle heat will help the oils reunite with the precipitate. Boiling it will drive off m-state.

14) Once it is thoroughly dry, you will need to large boiling pot. I use a Visions glass/ceramic dutch oven in 5 quart size WITH LID. Boiling won't drive off so much of the m-state now that the oils are reunited with the precipitate. Take it out of doors, on a moonlit night, before the full moon, and place your dry precipitate inside of it. In a separate glass jar, add 18 ounces of lye slowly into 1 gallon of distilled water. This causes heat and must be thoroughly stirred in until it clears. Don't breathe the vapors.

15) Stir this now clear lye menstruum into your boiling pot with your precipitate sitting there.

16) Bring this to a full rolling boil and reduce the heat, while stirring, then cover tightly and place a brick or some other inflammable weight on the lid to reduce steam losses. THIS BOILING LYE IS VERY VERY VERY DANGEROUS!!! Let it boil, at a gentle rolling boil, for at least 4 hours.

17) When done, add some distilled water to bring the level back up to one gallon. Let it cool and settle.

18) Filter your solution through unbleached filters until it is clear of any particulates. I use a 1 micron filtering system.

19) While stirring your filtered solution rapidly, drip in some of your 20% HCL solution (acid solution) to reduce the ph to around 8.0 .

If you want to get fancy, go down slowly (all of this step is done SLOWLY) to below 2 ph and then add some of your 1/8 lye menstruum to bring the ph back up to 7.8 ph.

20) Let your white precipitate settle and separate the top water from it and save the top water.

21) Wash the precipitate as before in distilled water. Let it settle and separate. Save this top water.

At this point you can marry the top water to the precipitate by evaporation, as before, or you can simply dry the white, saltless precipitate and anneal it or you can measure it into water and have at it.

I would not wash all of the salt out of it. Annealing is up to you.

If you do not get a white precipitate from step 19 it either was not dry enough before the boil or the clusters were not sufficiently broken up enough. This is often witnessed by a color and precipitate forming when you first add your lye water in step 15. If this happens, precipitate it back out of solution by going to ph 8 with an acid solution, then dry it and redissolve as if you were starting from the beginning with gold metal (step 1). If you get to white gold during the ph swings, simply bring the ph to about 7.8 and wash some of the excess salt out. It is about "there." What you do with the oils which are in your wash and precipitation water is up to your
imagination.

There are other ways to do this. This is only one method of several.

Have fun! Be SAFE! Wear protective clothing.

Love ~~

Don

The Lye Burn Method (a.k.a. "Lye Fusion")

by Joe Lello
www.atlantisalchemy.com

Introduction

Most would agree that the pinnacle of ORMUS production techniques would have to be the classic sodium burn method, introduced to us by an individual whom, for purposes of the Internet, prefers to remain known only as The Essene. The sodium burn method is quite effective at disaggregating metals, but it unfortunately requires the experimenter to handle a fairly spirited if not downright dangerous substance - namely elemental sodium metal. Sodium metal itself is both caustic and toxic, but much more problematic is the fact that elemental Sodium spontaneously breaks down water into its component parts, Hydrogen and Oxygen, immediately upon contact. This reaction occurs so quickly and so violently that it produces a great quantity of heat, which more often than not ignites the highly flammable Hydrogen gas, and that Hydrogen gas then burns even more fiercely due to the presence of all that free Oxygen. If a large enough quantity of sodium metal is involved, sufficient heat may be generated by these burning gases to reach a temperature where the sodium metal itself may then ignite - and now you've got some serious fireworks on your hands!

While elemental sodium metal can be safely handled with the use of a little common sense, it is possible to attain results rivaling those of a sodium burn, by utilizing a much tamer substance - namely the hydroxide of sodium, more commonly known as lye. This process has come to be known as a "lye fusion" or lye burn. It works well with black volcanic sand and it works very well with copper metal. Unfortunately it has not proven very effective with gold metal, however when you consider that the cost of a pound of sodium metal is roughly $150 vs. an 18 oz. container of lye at three dollars and change - it makes pretty good sense to save the sodium metal for use with gold or other precious metals.

It has been stated that Red Devil brand lye is almost as pure as reagent-grade sodium hydroxide. Others claim that it contains contaminates. The author knows of at least a dozen people who have been using Red Devil lye in their alchemical Workings and ingesting the end products for years, and they are all still alive and kicking - but if you are a perfectionist and worried about every part per gazillion of contaminates, lab-grade sodium hydroxide is readily available, of course at a significantly higher cost.

Perhaps this is also a good time to mention another controversy: that of glass vessels vs. boiling lye. For all of you self-proclaimed scientific geniuses out there who are so fond of pointing out that boiling lye reacts with glass, the author has used the same Pyrex glass boiling crucible at least 25 times now with no appreciable signs of attack other than a fine white film on the inner surface of the crucible, and that is only in some spots. The ancient alchemist had no such advantage as corrosion-resistant borosilicate glassware to work with, yet somehow they got the job done without perishing. It is this author's opinion that, especially for a beginner, the advantages of being able to see and more precisely control the boiling process far outweigh any "danger of contamination" from lye attacking the glass.

Nuts and Bolts

The lye fusion method is a relatively straight-forward procedure. If you can afford it, a sturdy, covered titanium crucible seems to be preferred for working with either elemental Sodium metal or Sodium Hydroxide. If you cannot obtain a titanium vessel, acceptable results can be had by using a crucible made from 1810 stainless steel. Generally, a small 5-inch or 6-inch diameter stainless steel cooking pot with a well-fitting stainless steel lid makes an acceptable vessel. Make sure to remove any plastic handles or knobs that may be present, and plug up any left-over holes with a stainless steel nut and bolt. Another caution - make sure the handle is not riveted on with aluminum rivets. The aluminum rivets will melt almost as soon as your crucible hits the fire (...don't ask me how I know this!) and should the aluminum metal make it's way into the lye - toxic compounds will be formed and your project will be ruined. Drill any aluminum rivets out and replace them with stainless steel nuts and bolts, or simply leave the handle off and plug up the holes with stainless hardware.

Many inexpensive small cooking pots have an aluminum-filled base plate attached to the bottom of the pan to assist in evenly distributing the heat when used at normal cook stove temperatures. Try to avoid using this type of pot. When used as a crucible, the aluminum layer will melt and ooze out of the cracks around the bottom of the pot. While this may not seem all that problematic at first glance, keeping those blobs of melted aluminum from reacting with the lye solution just makes one more thing to have to deal with unnecessarily when you already have enough to keep you busy.

If you are unsure of the composition of your crucible - do a dry run in the fire first and see how it reacts. Better to find out you've got a problem with an empty crucible, instead of a pot full of valuable prima materia. Heating the crucible to red heat will also remove any traces of oils, waxes or chemicals that may be present.

Down to Business

Aside from the monetary savings, another big advantage to using lye is that it is a finely divided material, generally present as small beads or granules. The small grains mix more intimately with the materia than large, jaggedly-cut, hurriedly-arranged chunks of sodium metal. If you intend to do a burn using Copper or other metal, take a thin sheet (foil is best) of your metal about 5 inches square and hammer it out as thin as you can with a ball peen hammer. You may not notice much happening with metals that are harder and less malleable than gold, but hammer it out anyway - since you are putting a little of yourself and your intent into the Work this way. Next, using a sturdy pair of scissors, cut the hammered sheet into strips about 1/8th of an inch wide. Then take 3 or 4 strips at a time in hand and cut them off into the smallest flakes you can make. The flakes should be no larger than this letter "X."

Copper flakes ready to mix with lye granules.

If you are going to do a burn of black volcanic sand, put about 1/4 cup of your sand into your prepared crucible and place it on the stove at the very lowest heat setting, uncovered, for about 10-15 minutes to drive out any moisture. When you think the sand is dry enough, place the cover on the crucible and set it aside to cool. When the crucible is cool enough to hold in your hand, remove the top and add about 1 to 1-1/2 cups (8 to 12 oz.) of lye. Put the cover back on and shake thoroughly to mix the lye and the sand together well. For metal flakes, a swirling motion works best for this.

Into the Fire

A good source of heat for the lye fusion process is a propane "turkey cooker." These are readily available (especially after the Thanksgiving holiday) from most discount, department or dollar stores for somewhere in the neighborhood of 40 dollars (US). WalMart and Sears Hardware stores often "blow them out" on clearance sales for as little as $14.99 per unit! Try to find one that is rated at least 145,000 BTU. A turkey cooker offers a distinct advantage over other types of propane burners in that it is already set up with an acceptable platform upon which to place the crucible. The author uses a large de-commissioned propane space heater sold by W.W. Grainger that produces 250,000 BTU of heat. It is a great big bear of a burner, good for outdoor use in cold climates, but it does not come with a ready-to-use platform for the crucible. You'll have to rig something up yourself.

The author's "Big Bear" of a burner.

Be advised: If you want to be able to attain cherry-red heat outdoors, even in very cold ambient temperatures, you are going to need a BIG burner. It is also a good idea to set up some sort of a wind-break around your burner. CBS blocks or bricks are the best bet, but wood may also be used if sufficiently insulated by facing it with foil-backed insulation or sheet metal on 1/4" standoffs.

A suitable wind-break helps to conserve heat.

A further aid to getting enough heat is a heat-concentrator or shroud. This can be made from a piece of sheet metal or a length of stovepipe. Place the concentrator around the crucible to further increase the heat on those c-o-l-d northern days.

A sheet-metal heat-concentrating shroud .

Place your crucible and its contents onto the burner platform and place a 2-3 lb. weight on the lid. A metal barbell weight works well for this. If nothing else, find a good-sized rock or a brick. Avoid using concrete, as concrete tends to "explode" when heated rapidly due to the expansion of trapped internal moisture. Try to get your crucible centered over the burner as best you can. Some re-positioning of the crucible may be necessary once you fire it up, so have some sort of implement ready. Fireplace tongs work nicely for this, and it also wouldn't hurt to have a good pair of welders gloves handy. Fire up the burner and try to get the crucible completely engulfed in the flame so it is heated as evenly as possible.

There are generally no pyrotechnic flare-ups with lye, like you occasionally have with a sodium burn, but there are still plenty of toxic vapors coming off of the mixture so stay upwind of the burner. Ideally, your crucible should get red-hot, at least the lower 1/3 of it. Once the crucible reaches glowing red heat, time the burn for at least 30 minutes. You can let it go for an hour if you want to, but the author has obtained good results at 30 minutes with both volcanic sand and Copper metal. When you think your mixture has cooked sufficiently, cut the heat off and take a break.

Bubble, bubble...

Remove the weight from the lid of the crucible as soon as you turn off the flame - since this will usually take much longer to cool than the crucible itself and it's entire contents. When the crucible is cool to the touch, remove the lid. It may be necessary to tap the cover of the crucible gently around its circumference with a small hammer to get it to loosen up and come off.

Remember people, this is highly caustic LYE - chunks of it may go flying around >>> ONE SPECK OF IT IN YOUR EYE WILL BLIND YOU FOR LIFE! <<< Always use safety goggles or safety glasses. Work near a sink and have a bucket of fresh water on hand to use for an emergency eye-rinse. A bottle of vinegar to neutralize any lye burns on the skin is also a good idea.

The contents of the crucible should now look kind of like solidified oatmeal.

Inside the crucible after a burn.

Unlike a sodium burn, the material in the pan is still very water soluble after a lye burn! Anyone who has ever spent a few hours with their hands stuck in a plastic bag, chipping and smashing chunks of caustic sodium-metal "cement" loose from the bottom of a steel pan will definitely appreciate this point. Set the crucible down into the bottom of a large plastic bucket and SLOWLY add distilled water to it, stirring with a large plastic or stainless-steel spoon. When no more of the burned material will dissolve into that batch of distilled water, dump the water out into another plastic bucket and add some more fresh distilled water. Continue this procedure until the crucible is empty.

Pour the dissolved material, and any leftover sand, metal, or what-have-you into a 2 quart stainless-steel pot (or Pyrex casserole) with a well-fitting lid. Add more 1:8 lye solution [16 oz. lye to 1 gallon distilled water] if necessary to bring the level up to within an inch of the rim of the pot. Again, it is a good idea to put a weight on the lid to keep as much steam from escaping as possible. Bring the solution to a GENTLE ROLLING BOIL over a GAS flame, and boil for 4 - 6 hours, adding more pre-heated distilled water periodically as needed to keep the level constant.

[Note: When a lye menstruum such as this begins to boil, it boils ALL AT ONCE, and it will immediately boil over if the flame is set anywhere above a bare minimum. Trust me - this makes a hell of a mess, not to mention the hazard to people, pets, etc. If you start out with a medium flame to "get it going" - STAY RIGHT THERE WITH IT UNTIL IT BEGINS TO BOIL and immediately reduce the flame to a minimum to keep it from boiling over. If you do not heed this advice, you will sorely wish that you had.]

Filter Time

Allow the solution sufficient time to cool and settle. Unfortunately, this might take an entire day...or longer. If you have ever done anything that has anything at all to do with Alchemy, then you know it takes a lot of PATIENCE. Nothing will come of this procedure that will make anything happen in a hurry. We're not baking a cake here. This isn't moonshine we're brewing. In most cases, the effects of M-state materials take months and years to manifest, so WHAT'S YOUR HURRY? If you allow sufficient time for the material to settle, your menstruum will be almost crystal-clear and it will filter quite quickly and easily. If you rush it - you will clog your filter paper and it will wind up taking even longer to get the job done.

The best method is to siphon the top liquid off of the settled solids using a length of vinyl tubing (like air tubing used with an aquarium). If, however, you are one of those people that just never got the hang of starting a siphon, you can simply use a ladle to scoop out the liquid slowly so as not to disturb the settled solids. Whichever method you choose, when the liquid level gets low, removing the last of it will be a little easier if you cant the vessel to one side by propping it up underneath one edge with something.

The best method is of course is to vacuum filter the menstruum with a Buchner funnel and a 1 micron glass filter, however this is not absolutely necessary. Even if you plan to do a vacuum filtration, you will still need to pre-filter the material. Shown below is a method of filtering that has proven to work well either as a prelude to vacuum filtering or as an end in itself. Obtain some stainless steel strainers (try a dollar store) and stack 5 coffee filters into each of three strainers. Place 3 clothespins evenly spaced around the rim of the first strainer, and pre-wet the filters with distilled water. Repeat with the second strainer, then place the second strainer inside the first, resting it's clothespins directly on top of the first set of clothespins. Repeat with the third strainer. Some juggling of the clothespins may be necessary to get everything situated, but once everything is in place, the setup will remain stable throughout the procedure.

A handy setup for pre-filtering.

If you do not have a large Pyrex beaker, find a suitable container like a wide-mouthed gallon jug or a large bowl and position the strainers up above it as best you can. Slowly add your menstruum until it all filters down into the container. After filtering, the liquid should be as clear as vodka. If it is not, repeat the procedure with fresh filters. (If your liquid is still cloudy after 30 coffee filters - there's something wrong with your eyes, or your filters!)

Rock that pH!

For this portion of the process it is best to use a pH meter with decent resolution, preferably one that has temperature compensation. Simple pH paper simply cannot successfully be used for this. Why, you ask? Because unless you have eyes like an oriental pearl sorter, it is impossible to discern a fraction of a pH point with pH paper, not to mention the fact that you will need about 200 pieces of pH paper every time that you do this. Practically every piece of lab equipment used in Alchemy can be fudged with kitchenware or other common items, but not the pH meter, sorry. If you are serious about alchemical Work, break down and buy a decent meter, and I don't mean one of those $39 specials suitable only for checking your salt-water aquarium. Get yourself a real pH meter. Probably the best-known source for pH meters is Hanna Instrument Co. and their most economical, yet still decent meter would be the HI8314.

Assuming that you have a decent pH meter, put a sufficient quantity of your menstruum into a large beaker or other Pyrex glass container, position the meter probe(s) and begin stirring the solution with a glass rod or nylon spoon. Be sure the stirring tool is resistant to room-temperature acids and alkalis. Slowly drip in 20% - 30% HCl into the menstruum while constantly stirring.

>>> Once again, remember...you are DRIPPING CORROSIVE ACID into CAUSTIC LYE. ONE DROPLET OF EITHER SPLASHED IN YOUR EYE WILL BLIND YOU. Always use proper eye protection. Work near a sink, and have a bucket of clean water available as an emergency rinse, and some vinegar to neutralize any lye burns on the skin. <<<

The goal here is to adjust the pH slowly, lowering it by no more than .1 pH point per minute. Monitor the temperature of the solution while you are titrating it, and do not allow the temperature to go above 45 degrees Centigrade (about 100 F). If the temperature reaches 45 C, stop and let the solution cool. Go make a cup of tea or something. - remember, we're not in any hurry here.

Bring the pH slowly down to 1.0 and stop. You may notice a characteristic effervescence of the menstruum just before this point - this is quite normal. If the temperature is still low enough, begin dripping in 1:8 lye solution, again while constantly stirring. This time, the goal is now to RAISE the pH by no more than .1 pH point per minute. As before, do not allow the solution to heat above 45 degrees C. When you get to about pH 7 or 8, depending on the temperature, you should see a white precipitate beginning to form. If you are working with copper or black volcanic sand, you can take the pH up to about 9.5 and stop.

If you were working with Copper metal, look very closely at the color of the precipitate which forms. The precipitate MUST be white - any other color except white is no good. If you should happen to get a blue or green precipitate, re-dissolve it by once again dripping HCl into the menstruum slowly until the pH goes back down to 1.0 and try again. This time work much, much more slowly.

The Fun Part

All that's left to do now is to wash (almost) all of the salt out of our precipitate. Find a large slender glass vessel shaped like a cylinder and pour the solution into it to settle. Cover it with plastic wrap to keep dust, bugs, etc., out of it. You will find that your precipitate will settle much faster if it is kept in the dark, so put some aluminum foil, or a brown paper grocery bag over your settling vessel while it falls. Department and dollar stores sometimes have large glass candle-holders that make excellent precipitate-settling cylinders. Some hold upwards of 2 liters of solution and they are very inexpensive, so you won't beat yourself up so bad when it slides through those lye-slippery fingers and goes crashing to the floor. An acceptable glass cylinder can also be made by removing the top portion of a glass bottle, but this will be left up to the resourcefulness of the individual.

Candle-holder cylinders, one with nail polish spots every 250 ml.

When the solution has settled completely - again, this may take a day or longer - pour or siphon off the top water until only precipitate remains in the cylinder and add roughly 3 times the volume of the precipitate of distilled water and let it settle again. When this has settled, taste a little bit of it with a plastic spoon. If it is still too salty for you, wash it again. If you plan to carry any of the solution anywhere by car, or send any of it to someone by mail, be sure to leave plenty of salt in it to protect it from x-rays and EMF from scanners, etc.

The first matter

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